Minggu, 20 Januari 2013

Broody Hens - Nature's Incubators. Your Questions Answered!




By Tom Bel -



Broody Hens. Natures incubators. The way chickens have done things since there were chickens. Until relatively modern times all chickens came from a broody hen.


I'm fairly new to the chicken keeping world. My wife and I got our 1st chickens 9 years ago. Everything and I do mean everything I have learned about broody chickens I learned from my hens (from here on out just referred to as The Girls). It did not take me too long to figure out that they knew how to do this and what was best, if a chick wasn't going to make it, and basically how to be chickens. Chickens are better at being chickens than humans are.

We have a decent sized flock - in the neighborhood of 80 chickens and 11 ducks. The actual number of chickens can vary week to week, who was culled, who was born or who was sold. Only a small percentage of our birds were born to an incubator. Nearly all came from broody hens. Nature at work. Enough back ground. Let’s get on to discussing broody hens. Be prepared for a story or 2 to make a point.

My broody endeavor started when I got Sumatra's. Sumatra's are an Asian breed of Game bird. They are excellent at brooding and excellent mothers. This I have learned. As a matter of fact nearly every broody I have had from any breed was a good mother. There were of course a few exceptions, just like in humans. 


My approach to broody hens... Hands off. I try not to get involved at all other than to watch and enjoy the show. As long as the girls choose a safe spot to brood, indoors where I can lock them up to keep them safe from predators they can raise their brood there. I have never provided a separate broody area. They roam and live with the rest of the flock.

The girls will choose the silliest places to hatch their eggs. Every place from the favorite nest box, to my work shop, to their favorite place… my shed. My shed has been taken over by my Sumatra's and now many who were born there call it home. Sometimes they will choose a nest 18 to 24 inches off the ground. No problem at all. My first girl to do this was Mama my best Sumatra broody. She is 5 years old and raises 4 broods a year. She has earned her name. 


The first time she brooded on a raised nest was on a shelf in my shed. I intervened a little on this by simply adding a board to the edge of the shelf so lil ones wouldn't fall off the shelf. Mama had her hatch and I knew the morning of day 3 (since the hatch started) that Mama would want to take her lil ones out to meet the world. I set the alarm and got up early to take the nest off of the shelf. Mama had other plans. I opened the shed door that morning and there sat Mama with her 7 lil ones. Off the shelf, waiting to go outside. That same year another one of Mama's nests was 24 inches high, on another shelf, inside a box. I was fortunate enough to watch Mama jump out of the nest and call her lil ones down. One by one, they all jumped and flapped and came down to their mama. Lesson learned. Mama knows best.

Now in these circumstances of course the girls can not return to the nest they hatch in. If they have had their hatch in the coop I just let them chose their own new spot. They will find a spot they like for themselves and their lil ones and usually stay in that spot until it is time for the lil ones to roost. If they are in a spot like a shed that the entire floor isn't nesting material like shavings, then I provide an enticing nest. A box of pine shavings with the front cut out low works great. 


These were examples of unfenced girls raising lil ones. So what about penned birds? I do the same. Let the girls do it. They pick the nest and do the work. Last summer I had 2 girls go broody in the same week in a coop/pen setup. There are 2 roosters in that coop. No problems with roosters or other hens bothering the mama's and their lil ones. No one bothers a broody hen.

Some of my other girls have joined into the broody business. 3 RIR's joined in last year. The 1st one took me by surprise. I was trying to lure 2 Sumatra's laying eggs in the coop into going broody (more on that later) and a RIR who I have had for years decided to go broody. I gave her 6 eggs - she hatched 4 healthy lil ones. At 3.5 weeks old a fox took her and one lil one. We watched the lil ones all day going about their lives as little chickens. My wife was really concerned. I kept telling her that their mama taught them well and as long as they went in the coop on their own at night, they would be fine. And they were, and still are. Two of the 3 are roo's and they share rooster duties in that coop, and the hen is a beautiful blue Sumatra. Their mama taught them how to be chickens. Human raised chickens at 3.5 weeks old would never survive on their own. But a broody raised chick knows everything they need to know about being a chicken by then. 


And let’s not forget about the ducks. We had a Fawn and White Runner (Penelope) go broody a month after we got her. She sat on 8 eggs and hatched 6 healthy lil ones. She was a really good mama. Looking forward to her and/or her offspring doing it again.



I'll try to cover the commonly asked questions. The main question is always "how do I make my hen go broody?" Simple answer is, “you can't.” But you canencourage broodiness in the girls. Most important if you wish to use hens to incubate and brood chicks, is to pick a breed known for broodiness. All game hens (obviously including Sumatra's) and Silkies are no brainers. They love to brood. But the instinct is still there in some hens of any breed. So here is what I do. I leave false eggs in nests at all times. With Sumatra's I take an egg and leave a golf ball. I continue this until I'm either up to 6 golf balls or the girl goes broody. After 6 I just remove the egg. Once she is sitting for 2 or 3 days on the warmest golf balls you have ever touched I swap golf balls for hatching eggs. For the LF girls and the ducks I have fake large eggs. Same process. Take and egg, leave a fake egg. This method has enticed many girls to go broody. Including many RIR's and even a White Leghorn. And of course Miss Penelope.

"Do I need to add heat?" is a common question. “No,” is my answer. Mama hen can provide all of the heat needed. Christmas day 2012. A broody girl and her 3 day old chicks. 23 degrees F for a high.
It was 7 degrees below zero F a week later. Mama kept the lil ones warm.


"What do I need to do for broody and her babies?"
Provide a safe coop, give them chick starter feed and have water available. Mama will do the rest. Just monitor them and enjoy the show. Mama hen will handle the stress, you don't need to.

"My broody isn't eating!"
Broody hens don't get up off the nest every day and when they do, it is for a short time. Ten to 20 minutes is typical. It is easy to miss your broody getting off of the nest.

"How long does a broody sit to hatch eggs?"
Chicken eggs take 19 to 21 days typically to hatch. Late hatches on days 22 and days 23 are not unusual. Always remember that eggs are not on a timer and that chickens can't tell time and do not have calendars. Just like with humans, some babies come early and some come late.


"How long will my broody sit after her hatch starts?"
Typically a broody hen will sit for 36 hours after the 1st chick is born. After that point, even if all of the eggs are not hatched, she will need to get off the nest to feed her lil ones. At this point some hens are finished sitting. I have had other hens feed their lil ones then return to sitting. Hens vary in behavior. The former is more common than the later.

"I have a broody hen but don't yet have fertile eggs."
If you would like to have your broody hen hatch eggs but do not have fertile eggs, give the broody hen either real unfertile eggs, fake eggs, or even golf balls to sit on until you get fertile eggs. There are several ways to get fertile eggs. There are several venues online to purchase fertile eggs. My preferred way is to check locally. Check Craigslist, check local farms. If all else fails ask your mailman who has chickens.

"How long will my broody take care of her chicks?"
That varies hen to hen. Some hens are done raising them when the chicks are 4 weeks old. This is really nothing to worry about. Mama Hen has taught them how to be chickens. Other hens take care of their lil ones for 12 weeks or any length of time between. 


"My broody hen is mean and is attacking me!"
No, she is doing her job of protecting her babies. Even you are a threat to her at this point in time. She will trust you again.

"I think I have a bad broody. It is pouring rain out and she is out in the run sitting on her babies instead of being in the coop."
No this is a good mama hen. She got caught in the rain and will sacrifice her own comfort to keep her lil ones dry and safe.

"I have eggs due in the incubator about the same time mama will hatch. Can I give her extra chicks?"
Normally yes. It almost always is successful to do this while the hatch is going on. And within 2 or 3 days (max) of a completed hatch. Monitoring mama hen is a must. More often than not she will just accept them. Sometimes she will KILL them. Watch mama. Giving her the chicks while it is dark is best. Put them right under her. Wear gloves as you may get pecked - broody hens can draw blood.


These are some of the most commonly asked questions. Feel free to ask me any questions you may have about broody hens. My FaceBook page is

As I have said, I believe in the human hands off approach to broody hens. There are of course times to intervene. A baby escaping from the pen is a common one. Give the baby back to mama and fix the fence.

Until about a week old many chicks have trouble with ramps. Put on gloves and eye protection and help the babies in the coop. (Wear the gloves and eye protection as mama hen will most likely attack you.)


Baby got lost. It happens. Pick up the baby and return it to mama.

The "Should I intervene?" portion:
The best answer almost always is NO! As I said earlier, chickens survived thousands of years without human help and let’s face it… chickens know how to be chickens better than humans know how to be chickens.

Common "Should I?" questions:

"Should I help the chick out of the shell?"
My answer is “No.” Here is my thought on it: If a chick is not strong enough to get itself out of the shell, it wasn't supposed to be born.

"My chick is shrink wrapped!"
There are ways to get the chick out, but here is what I have found from experience. When you do intervene and get the chick out, it often has either a crooked neck (which is permanent), or has a serious leg deformity. If mama kicked it out and it is shrink wrapped, she did it for a reason. Don't help. You can not save every chick.


"My hen is kicking eggs out of the nest. Should I put them back?"
No. Hens know if an egg has quit, didn't develop etc. Trust your hen and toss the egg.

Broody hens know what they are doing. Always trust your broody. 99% of the time they know exactly what they are doing. A broody hen is an amazing thing to watch. Sit back and enjoy the show. Only intervene if ABSOLUTELY necessary. This is truly a time where "mama knows best." Everything I learned about broody hens, I learned from my girls - just by observing them. At first I felt the need to intervene and quickly learned my first year with broody hens (10 broody hens that year as I recall) that mama knows best. The chicks I helped hatch were the first to die. The shrink wrapped chick I assisted was deformed and I had to cull it anyway. Mama knew best. Trust your broody. She really knows what to do. 



Jumat, 18 Januari 2013

Chickens, Eggs, Fertilization, Reproduction and Other Insider Information


One of my daughters has a Silkie that pops out eggs like a gumball machine! She layes almost daily... about every 25 hours. Ever wonder how chickens do that?


On this blog, it is not that uncommon for me to show the insides of real chickens. Happily, I can assure you that through the magic of electronics and art, my daughter's gumball machine Silkie (today's model of chicken reproduction) is running happily about the yard as I write.


So in this chicken version of How Stuff Works, I have made a rather simple diagram of the inner reproductive workings of the average hen. Chickens develop and hatch with thousands of ova (yolks or undeveloped eggs) - already inside their ovary. Though chickens start out (in the egg) with two ovaries, only the left one develops and becomes active. It is this way with almost all poultry, though raptors differ in that generally the right side develops and not the left.

In this diagram you can see Ova in various stages of development near the #1.

As a pullet matures, her reproductive organs mature also. From the outside we can usually see the growth and reddening of the comb and wattles... unless, that is, it is a Silkie where comb and wattles tend to be dark in color and hidden under tons of fluff.

When a mature Ovum is released from the Ovary, it is called ovulation. The entire reproductive system is called the Oviduct and  is usually between 25 and 27 inches long in a mature hen. The Oviduct has five distinctive parts. The first part is the Infundibulum - When the ovum is released from the ovary, the muscle lining of the infundibulum pulls the ovum into it... sort of like a mini egg vacuum. The ovum spends about 15 to 18 minutes in this part of the oviduct.

Fascinating fact - when a rooster mates with a hen, he mounts her and, standing on her back, lowers his cloaca (vent) and the hen inverts her own cloaca to meet with his. There is no penetration, but the sperm packet released by the male is taken into the hen's cloaca or vent. From there the sperm makes its way to the infundibulum where it awaits the release of an ovum. Sperm can live in the infundibulum for more than 2 weeks.

So - the ovum is released from the ovary into the 3 to 4 inch-long infundibulum where it is fertilized with the rooster's sperm if the hen has been mated.


 Then the fertilized (or unfertilized) ovum moves into the Magnum. The magnum is the longest section of the oviduct at roughly 13 inches in length (diagram is SO not to scale). This is where the egg white or Albumen is added to the ovum. The ovum's trip down the magnum takes about 3 hours.

 
Next, the partially-constructed egg moves into the 4 inch long Isthmus where the inner and outer shell membranes are added over a period of about 75 minutes.


The egg then moves into the Shell Gland (Uterus) where it stays for 20 hours to have its shell constructed. The hen's body will pull some calcium from her bones and the rest from her diet to put into the shell. If the hen is of a breed that lays colored eggs, the pigment will also be put into the egg in this section of the oviduct.


After the shell has been added, the egg moves down toward the Cloaca or Vent so that the chicken may lay the egg.


And from here the entire process starts over. Interesting facts to note, chickens almost never lay eggs after dark. It takes an average of 25 hours to form a new egg. This means that even the best layers will have to skip a day every now and then because her egg comes an hour later each day, and once she reaches point at dusk, her body will hold on to the egg until the next morning.

Often people wonder about pullets laying shell-less eggs or irregular eggs. The best way to explain this is that as a pullet matures, all those parts of the oviduct may not be ready to create an egg all at the same time. If the Shell Gland is not ready or hasn't been able to procure enough calcium from the hen's body or diet, it may not be able to form a shell properly. It is best not to eat shell-less eggs. Feed them to your chickens - they love eggs for breakfast!

Hens that seem to have a habit of laying eggs with ridged or rough shells likely have an abnormality in their Shell Gland. Generally it is harmless to the hen, and perfectly safe to eat eggs with ridged shells.


Sometimes small spots of blood or meaty substances are present in eggs. This is caused when some part of the oviduct sheds material or has a broken blood vessel, and the shed matter simply gets wrapped up inside the egg when the membranes or shell is added. Though it should be fine to eat such eggs (fully cooked), that is solely up to you.

It is also very common for pullets to have some funny issues with laying when they have just started, and it is also common for mature hens to have some issues when they re-start laying after being broody or after a molt.

Oh - and one last thing... while feces and eggs both exit through the Vent, the oviduct and the end of the large intestine open right before the inside of the vent opening. This is why it is very, very uncommon to have worms inside an egg... the oviduct is placed far from the intestinal tract where parasites live to  help prevent such things. People may mistake a bit of sloughed off oviduct lining for a parasite - - because any parasite that found its way into an egg would have had to take a seriously wrong turn somewhere along the way!! Of course, it is not impossible. If it truly is a parasite inside one of your hen's eggs, it could indicate an uncommonly high parasite load in that chicken, and it would be time to take action to remedy the situation.


Happy Laying!

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Rabu, 16 Januari 2013

Combs - The Bowlers, Fedoras and Berets of the Chicken World


Combs come in all different shapes and sizes. The comb was designed as a heat regulator for chickens, thus, those breeds that developed in warmer climates will have larger combs while those that developed in colder climates are likely to have small combs that sits close to the head.

The following illustrations represent most but not all of the common comb varieties. I would have put more on here, but I was having far too much fun creating the illustrations and if I didn't stop, it could have been a week before I was ready to post!

The Single Comb is probably the most common comb type, found on many breeds around the world, which should come as no surprise as the original ancestor of the chicken, gallus gallus had this comb.

(Edward Neale - Gallus Gallus)

Breeds sporting this impressive, multi-pointed crown include the Ancona, Andalusian, Australorp, Barnevelder, Belgian D'Uccle, Campine, Catalana, Cochin, Delaware, Dorking, Dutch, Faverolles, Egyptian Fayoumi, Holland, Java, Jersey Giant, Lakenvelder, Langshan, Leghorn, Marans, Minorca, Modern Game, Naked Neck, New Hampshire, Old English Game, Orpington, Phoenix, Plymouth Rock, Rhode Island, Sussex and Welsummer.

Breeds including the Ameraucana, Brahma, Buckeye, Cornish, Cubalaya, Sumatra and Yokohama are topped with this comb type.


The Sicilian Buttercup is known for this double-sided, multi-pointed comb.



Worn by the fasionable Dominique (Dominiker), Dorking, Hamburg (Hamburg), Leghorn, Minorca, Redcap, Derbyshire Redcap, Rhode Island, Rosecomb, Sebright and Wyandott.

Shown off by the Orloff, Russian Orloff, Silkie and Yokoham.

And now for my favorite...
AKA: Bat Comb! 

The V-Comb... Not just for bats any more! This comb is worn by the Appenzeller, Crevecoeur, Houdan, La Fleche, Marvel (just kidding), Polish (Poland) and Sultan.


For most breeds, a single comb that is folded or bent is considered a fault. Not so for Leghorn hens where is folded comb is a common and even sought after fascinator.


Combs not represented in this post are the Strawberry (worn by the Maylay) and Cushion (worn by the Chantecler). Perhaps I'll add them later if I get time to do illustrations for them.

So tell us - - how many comb styles are represented in your coop?

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Senin, 14 Januari 2013

Spinach And Cheese Quiche

Spinach And Cheese Quiche

We've have had eggs fried, scrambled, omelets, etc., but this is our first quiche made from FRESH EGGS...ours.  Or rather the ones laid by our chickens.  I'm including the recipe but let me throw in this disclaimer on the front end: My cooking is half decent but I'm not real good at following a recipe. I usually do a loose interpretation of what is written and most of the time it comes out great. This recipe was a combination of some things I have tried in the past. But it was easy to do and tasted fabulous! So, no promises, but I don't think you'll have any problems with this.


 One medium onion, diced. Saute in olive oil.


Add fresh baby spinach
This was 11 oz. About five overflowing cups....


Cook spinach, tossing gently. 
More olive oil can be added if needed.


When spinach is cooked down remove from heat. 
Add 1/4 cup of butter.
This can sit and melt while you move onto next step.


 One cup each of shredded cheddar and farmers' cheese
Other cheeses can be substituted in same amounts.


  Seven medium size eggs. Whisk the eggs thoroughly.
I think they come out lighter
 if you don't use and electric mixer.


Fold ALL ingredients together in large bowl 
and add 3/4 cup milk - it can be any percentage.  
 (sorry no photo for the milk).


Add salt and pepper to taste. Stir gently until ALL ingredients are equally mixed.




Pour into a 12 inch diameter deep-dish pie crust.
Pre-made store bought pie crust is fine too.


Preheat oven to 375 degrees. Cook for about 35 to 45 minutes.
ALL OVENS COOK DIFFERENT SO CHECK FREQUENTLY! 
Quiche will be done when a knife inserted in the middle comes out clean.












 And it was wonderful!


Liz-