Where Do Eggs Come From - How Chickens Create Eggs

Warning!
The following post contains graphic material.

Some time ago, we ran an article on this very subject, complete with artistic representations of the inner workings of a mature, laying hen. (Chickens, Eggs, Fertilization, Reproduction and Other Insider Information) Now, due to an unfortunate hawk attack, we can show you the real thing.

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Calcium: Mixed Flocks vs. Mixed Feeds

By Leigh

As chicken keepers, many of us worry if our flock is getting enough of the necessary minerals, vitamins and nutrients. Modern, pre-mixed feeds tend to lessen that concern for many, yet if you have a mixed flock, these premixed feeds may present another danger.

For those that have a flock comprised only of laying hens, Layer Feed may work just perfectly. For those who have roosters and younger birds that are not yet laying mixed in with laying hens, premixed Layer Feed may not be the best thing for your whole flock.

The reason behind this conundrum is the calcium content of commercial Layer Feeds.

The calcium content in chick starter / grower feeds and general flock feeds usually falls between 0.5% and 1.5%.

The average calcium content of Layer Feed ranges from 3.25% to 4.8%. If a bird is laying regularly, these calcium levels are fine as the calcium is used to create the shell of the egg… but for any bird that is not laying, these levels may be too high, and might actually cause harm to some birds.

If a chicken is not laying and using excess calcium to produce egg shell, the kidney must filter out the excess calcium. Over time this can cause kidney failure.

Too much calcium, or Hypercalcaemia, can also result in calcification of the soft tissues and organs (including the liver and heart), pancreatitis, egg binding, dry skin, appetite loss, lethargy, confusion, depression, slowed growth in pullets and cockerels, dehydration, diarrhea or constipation,and even death.

So how do you feed a mixed flock of chickens without causing calcium deficiencies in laying hens, yet not overdosing young birds and roosters?

Many long-time chicken keepers who use commercial feed use “Grower” or “Flock Raiser” products designed for non-laying birds aged 10 to 18 weeks, and then offer free-choice oyster shell. Chickens won’t overdose themselves on calcium when it is fed free-choice. You will almost never see a rooster picking through oyster shell unless he just saw a bug jump into the dish.

It should also be noted that vitamin D3 is absolutely essential to the proper absorption of calcium. Most living critters obtain the bulk of their D3 through sunlight – so make sure your flock is getting plenty of rays! Not enough sun can cause laying hens to be unable to absorb the calcium in their diet. This can be just as dangerous to laying hens as too much calcium in the food would be to non-laying birds.

I will also note that other long-time chicken keepers report no ill effects from feeding layer feed to their entire flocks for many years.

Every bird is different and every breed of chicken is different. Some may be more sensitive to higher calcium levels, and others may be just fine with it. Those that get tons of natural sunlight may properly absorb much higher levels of calcium than those that stay inside for long periods.

My personal philosophy is that if I can do something that may help avoid long-term health issues in my flock without additional expense, it’s worth doing. I have always offered free choice oyster shell anyway, so switching feeds to the lower calcium feed made sense in my case. You be the judge and do what will be best for you and your flock.

Cheers

Leigh

And special congratulations to the winner of the Nest Box Blend Giveaway: Marianne Cowan. Please email us at shabbychicken@hotmail.com, Marianne!

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Ask Bee - Why Are My Hens are Laying Thin Shell / Soft Shelled Eggs??

Dear Bee,

Speaking of thin shells and egg eating (from the post: Ask Bee - Help! Egg-Eating Chickens!), I have a question. Starting a few weeks ago, I suddenly had no-shell and soft-shelled eggs. My flock’s diet hasn’t changed, but I switched feeds to a higher protein layer ration. I also sprinkle oyster shell on the ground in addition to their already free choice and I grind up the egg shells (what I use myself - the rest are sold and don't come back) and mix with table scraps.

I have a few pullets new to laying, so I attributed the no shells to them. But then I noticed the thin and soft shelled (membrane only) eggs. This also happened in March. Is this the "time of year" when I'm starting to get these eggs because of the molt? Or is there something else going on?

Since I changed the ration and started sprinkling oyster shell on the ground, the no-shells have disappeared, but I still have one laying a thin shell. Will it take a while to get them situated again? 

Bee's Answer:

Spring and Fall are the times of year that hen's reproductive organs are recovering from a lull, a down time in the hormones, etc.  When they restart, sometimes things sputter a little.  Sometimes when they are gearing down for a low egg production time, they will also do this.  This goes away in time and pretty soon the eggs are all good.  Yes, this is the time of year and again in March when they are gearing up for peak laying season after their natural winter slow down.  You'll also see this at times from a broody who is going back to laying. 

Much like how a woman’s body can do things differently after having a baby… but then things go back to normal after a while.

Bee -

November 27, 2012 is the last day to leave your comment to be part of

This Giveaway!!

 

Ask Bee - Help! Egg-Eating Chickens!

Dear Bee –

I’ve heard that feeding eggs to chickens will make my chickens into egg-eaters. Is this true??

Bee’s Answer:

This is a common myth that is perpetuated here, there and everywhere.... that feeding eggs to the chickens will make them into egg eaters.  This just happens to be one of my worst pet peeves... puts my teeth on edge.

If I've said it once, I've probably said it a hundred times, all chickens are egg-eaters.  They are opportunistic eaters and will hoover up an egg quick as anything else when presented with a soft shelled, cracked, or damaged eggs.  Certain times of the year this happens in most any flock. 

God designed these chickens to keep their nests clean.  This keeps predators from scenting their nests and it also keeps bacteria from the eventually rotten yolk/egg from harming the bloom of the other eggs in the nest.  Birds in the wild do the same thing and will clean up any broken eggs, much like a chicken.  

Generations of women in my family have been feeding eggs and egg shells back to chickens and never once had an "egg-eater."  You will hear the same thing from other experienced flock keepers.  The thing that makes people think that their "fake eggs" and other such deterrents left in nests have "cured" their egg-eater is because, along about the time they have placed these things and notice the results, is about the same time that the hen's reproductive hiccups have corrected themselves ~ as per usual, if you wait a bit ~ and any anecdotal "curing" of the egg-eater is purely coincidental.  No soft shells or broken eggs means no chickens with yolk on their faces.  Opportunity now over. 

A person who perpetuates the egg-eating myth is obviously someone who hasn't spent years with chickens and believes everything she hears from others of the same ilk.  These myths keep making the rounds as each new group of new chicken owners enters the field… and I hope to be a voice of reason in all that muck. 

You are completely safe feeding eggs raw, shells uncooked, shells uncrushed or not ground fine.... it's all the same to the chicken.  The scraps are fine as well... pretty much anything we can eat, the chickens will and can eat.  They don't usually eat potato skins or onions, though. 

Bee -

Ask Bee - Why You Shouldn't Light Your Coop in the Winter

Dear Bee,

My hens’ are not laying very much right now and I read somewhere that lighting the coop (so they have as many hours of light as they do during the summer) will make them lay more through the winter. How do you feel about lighting the coop?

Bee's Answer:

Winter lighting brings up another health subject....melatonin uptake.  Melatonin is only released by the pineal gland in the darkness and will not be stimulate to release if there is any light present...even low lighting.  Many light the coops to stimulate laying throughout the winter and I will give you my take on that as not being a such great idea if you want your chickens to be healthy and have laying longevity. 

A natural slow down for all creatures is needed in the winter months and the all natural approach to animal husbandry takes this into account. The nutrients needed as fuel to stay warm should not necessarily be funneled into forced laying. 

Melatonin is important in preventing reproductive cancers, for increased reproductive health and in good immune system function. 

If you just have production layers that will be replaced in 2 short years, then lighting is the way to go as you have these birds for one reason and do not expect them to last you past the 2 year mark anyway.  At 2 years they can all be culled and you can start a new flock.

But, if you are like me and keep a rolling flock of dual purpose breeds that make their own replacements and are going to be around until they just cannot lay enough to earn their feed, then lighting is probably not a good idea.  You'll want those birds to be as healthy and to lay as long as they possibly can in all the years that you have them.  If so, lighting the winter coop is probably not the best idea.  I've never lit a coop and have always had eggs enough for the family through the winter months... and birds that lay like gangbusters clear up into their senior years. 

If you want eggs through the winter, a good idea is to keep a high production type in the flocks that will go ahead and lay you some eggs for the family during winter slow down.... Rhode Island Reds, Leghorns, New Hampshires and even Black Australorps and White Rocks can do the trick and without anything more than natural light from the winter sun.

Lighting and heat.  Don't do it, never did.  Flock lays supremely in peak season, slows down in the winter and I never needed so many eggs that I had to goose them up to make a little more.  I sell eggs when there are plenty, save them for my family and a few preferred customers when there are few.

Nature is always the best teacher.... if a bird doesn't lay as much in the winter it is because they just shouldn't be doing it then.  Some do, some don't, some will, some can't.

To defray costs when egg money isn't coming in as regularly, I buy whole grains to cut my layer rations.  Goes further, keeps the flock well in the winter but isn't designed for peak laying season nutritional needs.

Heat is provided by God and all His incredible handiwork.... warm, fluffy feathering.  I also use deep litter for the added benefit of floor warmth.  My big coop windows are covered with plastic but the pop door is always open.

 

Bee -

Leigh Says:

A wonderful question was brought up in our comments section about brooding chicks without light. Of course the best method of all is to allow a broody hen to care for them, but unfortunately that is not always possible.

For those of us who need to brood chicks without a hen, I personally have had wonderful luck using a ceramic heat element like this one :

It fits in the same brooder clamp light as the bulb, but sheds zero light but still keeps chicks toasty warm!

Don't miss our key chain giveaway! See it HERE!

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